Organic certification used to be carried out by real farmers in wellies, who knew all the tricks and could spot dodgy practice on the land at 100 paces, writes Julian Rose. Today's certifiers arrive in patent leather shoes and get no further than the office - and this is meant to be an improvement?
… on at a fair old pace, we came to a field of rye. "Wonderful weed suppressor, rye", he volunteered. "Good choice for poor …