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Copenhagen by camel

Ewan Kingston

19th June, 2008

What do you do if you're a homesick Kiwi stuck in Europe, who won't fly on ethical grounds? You take the long road...

'Once you take three long-distance coach trips, you should get a PhD'

There is a traditional Muslim saying that throws jet-lag into a new light: If you travel faster than a camel, you must wait for your soul to catch you up again.

I'm here in Europe, 1,800 [I think] km from my homeland, Aotearoa/New Zealand. I'm starting to feel the itch to return, and I know it'll take a long time at camel speed, but I'm keen to try it. The alternative just seems silly. Spending a small fortune to bypass some of the world's most evocative landscapes and fascinating cultures in the name of convenience? No thanks. Then of course, there's the massive carbon footprint.

Planes, as you know, burn a lot of fuel. What you may not know is that there is scientific consensus that the CO2 emissions of aircraft 'punch above their weight'. This is due to the multiplying effect that high altitude has on the cocktail of gases that is jet exhaust. Air travel might be 'only' around 6 percent of the UK's total emissions but it is growing at an alarming rate, just as we are aiming to slash our overall greenhouse gas emissions. Under a business-as-usual scenario, by 2050 air travel would create more carbon emissions than the official target for all sectors of the economy combined.

In other words, the informed view is that today's air industry is one of the biggest threats to a stable climate. I believe this is bloody important, and I want to explore more soulful, less violent ways of travelling long distances. Hence the blog - charting the journey from UK to NZ, flying as little as possible on my miniscule budget.

My first leg, London to Copenhagen could have used up a sizeable chunk of that budget, had I chosen to travel by train. Luckily a great international service exists that co-ordinates highly  flexible and affordable coach travel around Europe: Eurolines. Operating out of sometimes forgotten coach stations all over the continent, Eurolines makes it pretty easy to obtain (and to afford) a ticket between hundreds of most of Europe's larger cities.

Long distance coach travel in Europe is generally both flexible and fascinating, but it's the camaraderie among the passengers that I really dig. Whenever I ride the coach I meet a handful of  interesting characters, and this trip is no exception. Natasha is travelling back to her home in the Loire, with her life packed up in the baggage compartment. She teases me for my accent while I bluster away in French. Jack from the Midlands tells me stories about Inner Mongolia, where he worked once. I take mental notes for my Trans-Manchurian adventure. Samantha, from Brussels, wants to emigrate to NZ.  'Tell me about a day in your life back home' she demands of me. 

By this time, we have already 'crossed' the channel, our bus nested inside a train carriage that rushes through the tunnel under that strip of water. After a quick change at Brussels, we glide along the autobahn, through Bremen and Hamburg, towards Puttgarden. We are moving much faster than camel speed, but when we stop for five minutes I love dipping my toes in the cultural pool of Northern Europe, grabbing a chocolate waffle in Brussels and practicing my German p's and q's in Hamburg. Among others who have boarded during the early morning stop in Hamburg is the loquacious Rashid. He's convincing his travel mate that slow really is the way to go. 'You learn about Europe like this, it's an education... once you take three long-distance coach trips, you should get a PhD!"

In late morning, we board a ferry to Denmark at Puttgarden. While others snack on Scandinavian shrimp and salmon, I wander out on deck, to watch the slate-coloured sea slip below us, and to catch my first sight of Denmark, its flat green peninsula studded with wind-turbines. Back on the road, it's just a couple of hours and sea-spanning bridges until we pull into Copenhagen. I leave the coach, for the last time -  slightly bleary eyed, but feeling a sense of wonder at the journey. To be honest, the scenery was rather bland, but to travel under, over and on the sea as well as through five countries in less than a day made the sore bum and fragmented sleep worth it all.

CO2 emissions for this leg:                                       45 Kg
CO2 equivalent warming effect if I had taken a plane   320 kg
(Best estimates)

 

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Users Comments

Re: Copenhagen by camel
Posted By Corona 1 June 22, 2009 06:37:34 PM

I never realised that the layer of the atmosphere in which greenhouse gases are emitted makes such a significant difference in their impact.

Someone has been there ( and back )
Posted By smallcog 1 June 22, 2009 07:45:16 PM

Not wanting to get into a Aussie/Kiwi debate but someone has already done the blog about the Europe=>Antipodes trip. http://www.babs2brisbane.com/ I'm sure you'll have a whale of a time, but I'll have to warn you that it's a bit more than 1800km to NZ as you mention ( wouldn't want you accusing the bus driver of bringing you the long way around ) / Colm

Thailand to Copenhagen by funky moped
Posted By Noddy 1 June 24, 2009 05:19:51 AM

Good on you and good luck! I've worked in Thailand for 5 years and share your ethics on flying. I'm desperately trying to find a path thro' the bureaucracy to let me ride my 125 moped all the way home. It does 140 to 160mpg and my record was 100km of mixed open road and Bangkok traffic at 205mpg. Beat that Toyota Prius.

Re: Copenhagen by camel
Posted By EC018542 1 June 25, 2009 10:41:34 PM

Hi folks, thanks for your comments, it's great to have you along for the ride. @Corona As far as I understand, it is the gasses like water vapour and nitrous oxides that have such a strong effect at high atmosphere. The multiplying effect of the altitude on plane emissions (sometimes with the catchy name of the radiative forcing index) is probably somewhere between two and three. It's easy for this factor to be left out, meaning the aviation industry can publish misleading figures. I've also seen figures for aviation emissions in Lonely Planet that seem way too low - perhaps the RFI was left out here too. @Colm I found out about Babs' trip just after I left on mine, and was very inspired and impressed. I'm sure you agree, though, that these kinds of stories can't be told too often. @Nobby. Sounds great! Keep us posted. www.seat61.com and www.projectvisa.org I found very useful for the intricacies of visa planning for us overlanders. @ECO018249 Of course there wil be a lot of variation in emissions estimates, the radiative forcing multiplier probably being the most important (and least well-understood) factor in the equation. However when I tried atmosfair, on the London - Copenhagen trip I got a figure of 280, which is much closer. BTW, what is an ATR?

Giving props
Posted By EC018542 1 June 26, 2009 12:48:31 AM

Cheers Colm, Glad to hear that Atmosfair is including a reasonable forcing estimate, and, if I had to take a short haul flight, I'd sure look for a company with a lot of turbo-props. They are far from being the norm though, whereas the 35 gm per passenger km figure I used for coaches was fairly high in the range of estimates for coach travel. cheers, Ewan

How far to New Zealand
Posted By EC018542 1 June 26, 2009 12:54:06 AM

1,800km? Of course I left off a pesky'0'. Wishful thinking maybe. If it was only 1,800km I could bike it! Ewan
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